So I made a dress from knit fabric. Those who know me will realise that me using a knit fabric is a very rare occurrence. In fact I’ve only ever made one item from knit fabric before. I didn’t really enjoy the experience and wasn’t enamoured by the outcome, although saying that I wear the dress a lot, so it can’t have been too bad! It was also made long before this blog existed, so that’s probably double reason it can’t have been that bad, as it’s still going strong!
Anyway to join in with the WSBN’s Cake day, I decided I’d be brave and make Steph’s Tiramisu dress.
- Having a 35 back and 40 front, my shoulder seams were completely different lengths, so I had to trim the front ones to fit the back.
- I didn’t know whether to cut the front midriff with a 40 measurement to match my front bust pieces, but in the end went with the 35. [The midriff pieces actually have the bust measurement along one size and the waist along the other.]
- The pattern asks for gathering stitches to be run through the bottom of the front bust pieces, I don’t know why these were there, as when I put the front bust pieces together, the bottom of the front as well as the bottom of the back pieces were shorter than the tops of the midriff pieces. I even wondered if I was supposed to add a seam allowance to the back, the difference was so great.
- I ended up trimming about half an inch from the top of each midriff piece so the side seams would match up.
When I tried the bodice at the first fit check, I was decidedly concerned. It fit, but it was like a decidedly fitted T-shirt. In fact you can see the pulling there from the under bust seam.
I really didn’t know what to do. I was considering completely starting again with the spare fabric….
After consultation with members of the WSBN (I feel so lucky to have them all at the end of a Facebook page!), I was told that the weight of the skirt would probably lengthen the bodice and also help with the fit. So I soldiered on.
I unpicked my basted side seams and attached the skirt pieces to the midriff pieces. Mindful of how tight it had been I finally stitched the side seams as narrow as I possibly could. I like the way the whole side seam is stitched as one from the armhole to the bottom hem as with a men’s shirt.
I kept my fingers and toes crossed (which made the sewing difficult 🙂 ) hoping it would work out. I think the gods were on my side. The finished dress looked OK…
I left the dress hanging to drop out the hem. Then had a panic about two hours before our tea party, when I realised I’d not hemmed it! I contemplated leaving it, but decided I’d probably not cut it straight. Thought about using my new twin needle, but decided I didn’t want it much shorter, plus didn’t really know how the needle would behave. So in an hour I hand stitched the hem, stuck the dress on and rushed out the door, nearly forgetting my lemon drizzle cake I promised to take along!
This is only the second item of clothing I’ve ever made from a knit fabric. I think I did much better with this, using a very narrow, but long-ish zig-zag stitch. All this is suggested on the pattern, which is great for a beginner or a novice with knit fabrics. The pattern also recommends the use of interfacing to ensure particular seams keep their shape. I cut lengths of about an inch wide to face the shoulder seams and the pockets.
Oh, pockets, did I mention this pattern has pockets! I’ve put pockets in each side seam. Great, I love pockets! However with the drape and feel of this fabric, in hindsight I might have left them out, they just don’t lay flat and bulge unless I really am careful how I fold my handkerchief! 🙂
None of the seams are finished. I don’t have an overlocker and the fabric doesn’t fray, so, why should I? I’m please with how the edging went on the neckline and the sleeves. They look quite tidy!
So the finished dress…
Fabric: Polyester knit in a paisley pattern from Arthur Toye’s sale, July 2013.
Notions: Just the interfacing for the seams and sewing thread.
Pattern: Cake Tiramisu
First worn: For the WSBN Cake Party at the end of July
Worn with: Everybody black pumps from a shoe shop in Edinburgh (UK), and some red tights (I think they are Columbine Chilli colour from Farmers.)
Changes made: Well none really, bar the fudged alterations mentioned above. I did cut the skirt a bit longer, but only about an inch.
Another one? Well maybe. I like the shape of the dress. It actually gets lots of wear, I think I’ve worn it once a week since I made it. The fabric does lose shape with wear, so I have to remember to wash it frequently. The problem I’ve experienced is that I have to wear a vest top or something else under it. If I make it again I think I’d cut a larger front, so I’m not constantly wearing something under it. At the moment, it is decidedly indecent without.
So, to whet your appetite, here is a final photo with it’s names sake (made by Sewist Stitch)