I’ve been pattern testing again! When Kat sent out the call for testers, I was there. I love Kat’s patterns and I felt the call to help a friend in need 🙂
This is Muse Patterns latest effort, Philippa, is described as “a pattern with many looks. A fitted style with three neckline options, cap sleeve or sleeveless choices, and two skirt lengths allows you to create styles suitable for anywhere. A sharp dress for the boardroom, a 1960’s mod-inspired garment, a casual skirt for weekends, or a cute top to throw on with skinny jeans for a dinner out.”
Such a choice! How does she manage to get so many different options in one pattern? I decided to go with a collared version with cap sleeves. The pattern just calls out for contrast side pieces, so I used a cotton sateen for the centre and sleeves and then used a black ponte knit for the side pieces and the collar. I’ve never combined a knit and a sateen together and it works! Just be careful not to stretch that knit too much around the princess seam!
Like all Muse Patterns the drafting of this pattern is great. The bust measurement is based on your high bust, so with this in mind, I cut a 40 B-cup and graded down to a 38 at the waist and hips. This is based purely on my measurements and the finished pattern measurements. This is standard for me for any fitted patterns for pear shapes. Otherwise I cut the longer version straight as is.
The cap sleeves are a double layer which means the seams are all enclosed. The armholes are bound with bias binding. The collar too is really easy to attach and the facing means that it all sits flat and tidy.
The centre back has an invisible zip, which went in like a dream. I’m really happy with that. I did think while putting the zip in, if I didn’t have the collar, this dress would look really cool with an exposed zip.
I think the only thing I might do another time (really tempted to make another in check like the sample version!) would be to adjust the princess seam. It’s just a wee bit high for me, but this is a standard adjustment and doesn’t mean I don’t like this dress any less. As I said earlier, I cut this straight from the tin.
Fabric: Black floral cotton sateen, I think from Fabric Warehouse 2015, black ponte double knit from Spotlight, 2015.
Notions: Thread, interfacing and an invisible zip.
Pattern: Muse Patterns Philippa.
Changes made: None.
Another one/recommendations: I definitely recommend this one. There are so many options, a dress, a blouse, or a skirt. The blouse or skirt will actually be great stash busters. I made the longer dress using contrast fabric and used 1.3m of 120 wide for the main and .8m of 100cm wide ponte for the contrast. I’m tempted to try the blouse version and use an exposed zip… I’ve got it in my head now 🙂
First worn: Mm, I’ve only worn it for these photos so far, which was yesterday afternoon on Te Ahumairangi hill behind the house, since I only finished it just before getting these taken. I reckon it won’t be long before it does get worn though 🙂 This dress will see me through the coming winter with boots and a jumper underneath.