I’ve only seen one other of these dresses out in the wild, but for me, as soon as I saw the pattern it was one I had to make.
So if you haven’t guessed from the title, this is the Pilvi coat dress from the Named FW16 Evolution Theory Collection. It’s a little different from my normal style, but somehow this pattern called to me. It’s described as a fitted, coat like jersey dress with long sleeves. It has patch pockets, yes pockets, and a double breasted closure.
My fabric is a ponte double knit from the Fabric Warehouse. I went to have a look and one of my WSBN friends who works there suggested this lovely teal green colour. I reckon she chose me a good colour!
Following my measurements I cut a UK size 16. I attached the pockets and basically put the dress together and tried it on – too tight. It was showing far too many of my lumps and bumps! So I unpicked every seam – yes, honest, each one from just above the bust to just below the hips and stitched them again using a 1/4″ seam allowance. I also unpicked and re-stitched the sleeves at the top. (I’d used a long narrow zig-zag on my machine, not my overlocker.) I wouldn’t normally sew it this small, but it works with this fabric. I think perhaps my fabric stretch wasn’t quite enough…
The pattern instructions are really clear and easy to follow. The collar attached like a dream. There is also a facing around the back of the neck which attaches to two long front facing pieces. Basically that front section is four layers of fabric and there’s even stretch interfacing for the facing pieces.
I attempted to attach the belt loops and wasn’t happy with the placement, so I took them out and decided to go without. I’ve not made the belt either. I might change my mind to see what it looks like, but I thought a belt from two layers of ponte would be too thick.
Buttons are such a big choice. I went to Made Marion, MrsC’s fine emporium and get these amazing brushed metal buttons. My buttonholes aren’t perfect but when done up, that stretching isn’t obvious. There is also supposed to be a button on the inside at the top. Attaching this was difficult, so I’ve attached a snap fastner instead to keep that top part of the facing done up.
It looks like the crossover is a long way down, but it works at this position and doesn’t gape and is still high enough to be decent. Not that you can really see from my photos – the wind kept blowing the lapel up!
Fabric: Teal green ponte double knit from the Fabric Warehouse, bought September time
Notions: Interfacing, thread, buttons and a snap fastner
Pattern: Named Pilvi Coat dress, size 40
Changes made: I omitted the belt and belt loops, otherwise unchanged
Another one/recommendations: I like this dress and I’m reasonably happy with the fit, having let out the seams. It’s still a wee bit tight around the bust as you can see from the stretch lines. Unfortunately it’s now getting to spring/summer (that’s if the weather behaves) and I don’t think this is going to get much wear this year. The instructions are really clear and easy to follow and although it may look a bit 80s, it’s actually a great dress. I have some more knit fabric which I bought for something else. I’m wondering if it might work for this… It has a bit more stretch and might work better.
And if you’re wondering about the name. Kat and I decided to take photos around one of the southern tips of Wellington, Moa Point. So we sat on benches, found signs, electricity cabinets, holes in the rock, etc, etc. It was very windy and we got just a little bit windswept, took some silly photos, watched the planes coming into the airport, checked out some things we haven’t seen and I found a pretty much whole paua shell 🙂