This is now my go-to shirt pattern for Mr N. I’ve made this up ten times now and is actually my most used pattern! It probably cost me around $20 to buy around seven years ago, so I call that good value for money now! 🙂
I’m that behind on blogging, that I’m including the last five in this post. They are probably going back two years – oops! Mr N has a penchant for bright Hawai’ian style shirts in the summer, so two of these are very bright.
As usual I can’t convince Mr N (or my in-house chef as I sometimes call him) to pose just so I can get some blog photos – he hates having his photo taken anyway; so you’ll just have to cope with photos on the hanger or lay-flat today.
Apologies for the moire in some photos – narrow stripes do not photograph well, nor does black.
There are a few changes I make as standard, which I’ll list here, along with the other changes I’ve made
- Grade out at hip to the size 46, from the size 42 chest/neck
- Lengthen the shirt by 1¼ inches
- Long sleeves are shortened by 2cm and taken in to a size 38/40 cuff
- Three of these shirts have short sleeves, I basically cut the sleeves at 5½ inches length, overlock the bottom edge and then fold at ¼ inch and ¾ inch. These are so much quicker to make with no placket and cuffs!
- Two of the short sleeve versions have side vents.
- One final version has an open V-neck.
Generally I flat-fell all seams, including the reverse flat-fell for the armholes. The pattern doesn’t actually suggest this. I also use the burrito method for the back yoke, from the Thread Theory website. (I like this version as the fabric they use as a clear front and reverse.) The open-necked version, I just overlocked the edges and stitched them as a standard flat seam. Definitely a very relaxed version.
Fabric 1: Black stretch cotton with an embroidered stripe, I don’t know where this came from, possibly The Fabric Warehouse, but it’s been in stash a while. All top stitching completed with a pale green thread. The main buttons are paua shell and the cuff buttons are shiny owls (possibly from Made Marion.)
Fabric 2: Grey and white spot Robert Kaufman chambray which came from Fabric Drop in December 2017, a small NZ online store which is now closing down. Small white buttons for the button placket. This shirt has short sleeves. All top stitching is in white. There are vents on the side seams.
Fabric 3 (African print): This is the loud version! The African print fabric was brought back from the UK by Kat the creator of Muse Patterns. I’ve also made up a waistcoat (not yet blogged) in this and there is some left for me! This version has short sleeves and an open V-neck. This took a bit of working out and stupidly didn’t note what I did. I have a sinking feeling I did it off the cuff (so to speak) and so don’t have the pattern to repeat it. Note to self – short this out! The seams are just overlocked and pressed flat. It also has vents on the side seams. The purple buttons came from Pete’s Emporium in Porirua.
Fabric 4: A pale blue and white striped linen cotton (not sure where from). This is a long-sleeved shirt, made this year sometime back in May, I think. All top stitching is in white. The front buttons and the lion cuff buttons came from Pete’s Emporium in Lower Hutt.
Fabric 5: A last minute purchase about in the middle of December this year when I decided to make a shirt for Christmas! The fabric is a NZ-themed fabric from Spotlight (this was bought in Whangarei). The shirt has bright green top-stitching. The yellow/green buttons came from Pete’s Emporium in Lower Hutt. This version has short-sleeves.
Notions: In addition to the buttons. I’ve been trying different types of interfacing for the collars and cuffs. I found some great stiffer interfacing for the collars, but could only find it in white. For the more relaxed short-sleeve summer shirts, I tend to apply the interfacing to only one collar and stand piece rather than both.
Changes made: These are all detailed above.
Another one/recommendations: I doubt I’m done with this pattern. I definitely recommend it if you can get hold of it. What I need to do is to draft out the pieces for an open necked shirt. It would be nice to ring in some changes, so I might try to incorporate some changes in future versions.