For those regular readers of these ramblings, it’s no secret, I love Papercut Patterns. I bought this as soon as it was released, but I needed that “perfect” fabric! Cue this most beautiful linen viscose from Fabric Drop (an NZ online fabric store) before they shut down at the end of last year. I love linen anyway, but the viscose just makes the linen drape in the most lushous way. So with an NZ designed pattern and fabric from an NZ shop, I’m very happy I’ve kept this fully local.
The Axis dress is described as an ode to Audrey Hepburn with a straight neckline and ties which can be tied at the back or brought round to the front and tied there. There is also the option of a pencil skirt with front split or an A-line skirt.
It took me a while to get this pattern started. I thought I would need to make some changes, an FBA, possibly widening the front straps, lowering the front neckline, possibly lengthening the bodice. All the things you’ll have seen me mention on here before. I tend to muslin all Papercut patterns. I’m a very different shape from the Papercut slim B-cupped model. My first muslin was a size 6 and gaped badly around the armholes. I know this means to do an FBA, which I was expecting anyway. I ended up doing a 2.5cm FBA and actually cutting a size 5 grading out to a 6 at the waist. Since I made such a large FBA, I also created bust darts, the large waist darts don’t look good.
The front neckline was too high for me, my head sits forward and I needed to lower it, so I lowered it by 1.5cm and added the extra to the straps. (I think this may have changed again when I made the final dress a I kept trying it on the whole time and left attaching these until the last possible minute!)
The skirt… As much as I love a front split on a skirt, I have a skirt with one already and I have to be very careful now and again. So, I cut the front skirt on the fold and added a back slit instead and made up a facing to give it more strength. It’s not perfect from the inside, but from the outside, it works perfectly! I also decided to hem the skirt by hand, I didn’t want to spoil the hem by machine sewing it.
The skirt is fastened with an invisible zip in the centre back and as an option in the pattern you can just make the skirt up.
What a lot of changes – yes, maybe, but they’re standard for me for Papercut Patterns and if I end up with a dress like this…
There is a gap left in the side seam so that when crossing the ties over the back, they sit flat and then tie at the front. I think this is my favourite way of fastening the dress at the moment.
The other option is to tie them at the back, give a deep back and a beautiful tie hanging down. I love this option, but prefer the ties at the front.
Fabric: Linen viscose “Flavio” from Fabric Drop, November 2019.
Notions: Interfacing, zip and thread
Pattern: Papercut Patterns Axis dress, size 5
Changes made: A 2.5cm FBA. Lowered the front neckline by 1.5cm, possibly lengthened the straps. Cut the front skirt on the fold. Added a back split with a facing to strengthen it.
Another one/recommendations: I love this dress. I finished it just before we went into lockdown here in NZ and so it’s not had an outing at all, except to my garden! So I decided it would be perfect for #virtualfrocktails (an international instagram frocktails party). It’s now also getting to autumn here in NZ, so a sleeveless dress with a plunging back is not the warmest, but my black shrug works wonders and I think this dress will see me through the year. I can’t wait to wear it again. I love it! Don’t know if I’ll make another – it deserves the perfect fabric. 🙂
And because I love this dress so much, here’s another photo! So worth the changes and getting that bodice to fit.