Next up, some more Art Deco items! This time a flared white skirt and another Scroop Ngaio blouse.
The blouse needs little introduction. I really wanted to make this next version from a more drapy fabric, such as a viscose to see how it fitted and the pleats down the front would sit, but I could not find enough viscose fabric in my stash to make one up.
This grey with birds on is another quilting cotton, which if I remember rightly, came from Spotlight in Rotorua years ago when I went up there for a North Island Sewing Meet. If I’ve got that right, it’s been in my stash for around 5½ years! These things need to mature!
The only change I made was to deepen the armholes slightly. I’m not sure it’s worked, since it’s still a little tight. I might need to reassess what I’ve done here, and I think it’s worth it, since I love this top and am really keen to make another.
The skirt is something completely new. When searching around for Art Deco style clothing, I noticed that skirts which were fitted and then either pleated at the bottom or flared were de rigueur. Straight away I thought of this white linen I’ve had in my stash for a while (I bought it to make something completely different around 3-4 years ago).
I looked at a number of different skirts. Initially I thought to make a straight pleated skirt based on the skirt of the white cherries dress I made. Following the hassle I had making this, I decided to go with something completely different. I found this bias cut skirt from Wearing History and straight away bought the pattern – I didn’t have enough fabric! So I suddenly remembered a book in my collection, Sew Many Dresses: Sew little time. In this book is a flared skirt, but cut on the grain and so not needing as much fabric.
The original in the book is pretty much fitted to mid-thigh when it starts to flare out. I actually lengthened it slightly so the flare started a bit lower down to fit in with the style of the time. (Having read a number of articles, the main thing I found about Art Deco style is that it’s not meant to be short and above the knee. A lot of the skirt/dress lengths are still below the knee.)
This skirt has princess seams front and back and side seams, so the zip is in the side seam. I didn’t add pockets, although I wish I had them! I added a narrow waistband and I used a button for the waistband fastening.
Since the hem is curved, there is just a narrow hem, it makes life so much easier!
Fabric: Blouse – grey/white quilting cotton with pukekos on from Spotlight, Rotorua bought in 2015. Skirt – white linen, not sure where from, bought around three years ago.
Notions: Interfacing from stash, zip and button for the skirt fastening
Pattern: Blouse – Scroop Patterns Ngaio blouse, Skirt – flared skirt, from Sew Many Dresses, Sew Little Time, by Tanya Whelan, my edition was published in 2015
Changes made: I took out some of the armhole on the blouse, since my previous version cut in slightly. The skirt was lengthened by around four inches and since the book has the skirt as a skirt for a dress, I self-drafted a straight waistband approx 1” wide.
Another one/recommendations: I still love this blouse shape and am determined to make one from a drapey fabric. As for the skirt, this pattern works well as a skirt, but might actually get enough fabric to make the one I originally bought which is cut on the bias!
What I will say is, these are both great makes and have both had a bit of wear since the festival, especially the skirt which I’ve worn any number of times.