Art Deco Evening dress

This will be about the last one for now on the subject of Art Deco. There is something else I’ve made, but I need to get Mr N to put them on, so they can wait for now! So the last one from me, is this dress.

I wanted another dress for evenings, so this is another creation based on a blouse pattern and a self-drafted skirt.

The bodice you might recognise as the Orageuse Lisboa blouse again. Those shoulder pleats and capped sleeves combined with the V back work really well. 

The skirt is a handkerchief shaped circle skirt. There are a lot of handkerchief hems from this period. So I basically cut a circle skirt with the “waist” the length of the hip size. Rather than cut a circle hem, I just cut it straight. I had to adjust it after attaching it to the bodice, since it was too long, but that’s not obvious now.

The skirt is in four pieces with seams at the side and centre front/back. The “handkerchief” corners are then about in line with my hips. The hem is finished with just a narrow hem.

The skirt is actually slightly eased/gathered onto the bodice. I also decided with this hip seam that I would then finish it with a sequin trim. The leftover trim is just left hanging down the side seam. This sequin trim I bought many years ago when we were still in the UK. 

This fabric was a pain to sew, but fitting in with my trying not to buy additional fabric for the week, I got this from the awesome Maryanne during a fabric swap with friends at a catch up in Wellington. But, it was perfect for this dress.

The details
Fabric:  Black patterned slinky something from a friend picked up at a swap
Notions:  Interfacing for the neck facings and black bias binding for the armholes. Sequin trim from stash attached around the hip seam (this originally came from Josy Rose)
Pattern:  Bodice – Orageuse Lisboa blouse, self-drafted handkerchief hem circle skirt
Changes made:  I removed the strap from across the back of the V neck. Also used bias binding for the armholes rather than facing.
Another one/recommendations:  Not really sure what to put here! I might use the pattern to make up another art deco style dress (if we go again!). I might also take in the side seams to give a bit more shape. I think this would look better with some kind of ribbon around the hip seam level to break up the long front and back.

Last but not least this fabric has some decidedly see through-y bits and so I decided to make some strappy slips to go underneath. I ended up making three, since initially I thought I’d wear this dress a lot more than I did and also thought I’d need one under the feathery dress.

Since I’d already made a slip for hot summer nights using the Pauline Alice Bailen top and dress pattern (not blogged), I decided I’d use this again to make the slips. It’s cut on the bias so uses quite a bit of fabric. 

I tried to copy the slip I’d made before by lowering the darts, but I lowered them too much! I will probably move them up, but these are intended to be worn under other items, so it’s not obvious.

The bias binding around the neck is self-made binding, it took me forever, but was definitely worth it.

To help with comfort, I also decided to add lingerie findings to the straps. So I have loops and sliders on the backs of these.

The details
Fabric:  Black poly-cotton and pale pink poly-cotton, both from Lincraft and a bright pink cotton from stash, I think from a friend at Fabric-a-Brac years ago. This latter was quite stiff, but loosened up when washing.
Notions:  Lingerie findings – some came from Lincraft and I can’t remember where the others came from!
PatternPauline Alice Bailen top and dress
Changes made:  I lowered the darts and also added lingerie slides and rings to add comfort.
Another one/recommendations:  Two of these look like they don’t fit at all, but it’s not obvious when on. I need to do quite a bit of work on this to make this fit properly. I’ve not really bothered, since the first was for hot nights and these are to go under other clothing, but I think it would be worth getting this to fit properly. This is a free pattern and is a great staple.

One thought on “Art Deco Evening dress

  1. The dress looks fab, Nikki! I was particularly drawn to your including the under slips, which are totally luxurious! Am collecting new nighty/house-dress-only ideas for summer and like your hardware inclusions. Have a little collection from old & worn out items … 😉

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