Papercut Axis Dress

For those regular readers of these ramblings, it’s no secret, I love Papercut Patterns. I bought this as soon as it was released, but I needed that “perfect” fabric! Cue this most beautiful linen viscose from Fabric Drop (an NZ online fabric store) before they shut down at the end of last year. I love linen anyway, but the viscose just makes the linen drape in the most lushous way. So with an NZ designed pattern and fabric from an NZ shop, I’m very happy I’ve kept this fully local.

The Axis dress is described as an ode to Audrey Hepburn with a straight neckline and ties which can be tied at the back or brought round to the front and tied there. There is also the option of a pencil skirt with front split or an A-line skirt.

It took me a while to get this pattern started. I thought I would need to make some changes, an FBA, possibly widening the front straps, lowering the front neckline, possibly lengthening the bodice. All the things you’ll have seen me mention on here before. I tend to muslin all Papercut patterns. I’m a very different shape from the Papercut slim B-cupped model. My first muslin was a size 6 and gaped badly around the armholes. I know this means to do an FBA, which I was expecting anyway. I ended up doing a 2.5cm FBA and actually cutting a size 5 grading out to a 6 at the waist. Since I made such a large FBA, I also created bust darts, the large waist darts don’t look good.

The front neckline was too high for me, my head sits forward and I needed to lower it, so I lowered it by 1.5cm and added the extra to the straps. (I think this may have changed again when I made the final dress a I kept trying it on the whole time and left attaching these until the last possible minute!)

The skirt… As much as I love a front split on a skirt, I have a skirt with one already and I have to be very careful now and again. So, I cut the front skirt on the fold and added a back slit instead and made up a facing to give it more strength. It’s not perfect from the inside, but from the outside, it works perfectly! I also decided to hem the skirt by hand, I didn’t want to spoil the hem by machine sewing it.

The skirt is fastened with an invisible zip in the centre back and as an option in the pattern you can just make the skirt up.

What a lot of changes – yes, maybe, but they’re standard for me for Papercut Patterns and if I end up with a dress like this…

There is a gap left in the side seam so that when crossing the ties over the back, they sit flat and then tie at the front. I think this is my favourite way of fastening the dress at the moment.

The other option is to tie them at the back, give a deep back and a beautiful tie hanging down. I love this option, but prefer the ties at the front.

The deets
Fabric:  Linen viscose “Flavio” from Fabric Drop, November 2019.
Notions:  Interfacing, zip and thread
Pattern:  Papercut Patterns Axis dress, size 5
Changes made:  A 2.5cm FBA. Lowered the front neckline by 1.5cm, possibly lengthened the straps. Cut the front skirt on the fold. Added a back split with a facing to strengthen it.


Another one/recommendations:  I love this dress. I finished it just before we went into lockdown here in NZ and so it’s not had an outing at all, except to my garden! So I decided it would be perfect for #virtualfrocktails (an international instagram frocktails party). It’s now also getting to autumn here in NZ, so a sleeveless dress with a plunging back is not the warmest, but my black shrug works wonders and I think this dress will see me through the year. I can’t wait to wear it again. I love it! Don’t know if I’ll make another – it deserves the perfect fabric. 🙂

Cheers!

And because I love this dress so much, here’s another photo! So worth the changes and getting that bodice to fit.

Lekala 4664

I’ve a few Lekala patterns in my collection now. I only really discovered them about two years ago. I like their designs and the patterns are inexpensive. I think this is my third make and there are a couple more not yet blogged.

  There are a number of different options when buying their patterns. Their PDF patterns can be delivered in one of eight standard sizes or you can add your own measurements and get a pattern drafted to fit you. An additional option is to have seam allowances added. I always get the patterns using my measurements and with the seam allowances (I’m useless at adding seam allowances.) This is blouse pattern number 4664. It has pleats at the neckline, a pleated front and short sleeves.

The fabric is an Atelier Brunette cotton gauze “Terrazo Night” which I bought from Miss Maude at Fabric-a-Brac in Carterton a couple of years ago. It was a remnant, but it’s such a beautiful fabric and I couldn’t resist it.

To be honest, I wasn’t sure if there would be enough to make this top. Lekala patterns have no fabric requirements, so you basically have to play around with the fabric of choice to see if it fits.

The line drawing for this pattern has a centre tuck, very similar to the Colette Sorbetto, but strangely, it doesn’t match up like a tuck and I could not work out how to stitch that front tuck without the stitches showing on the front, so in the end I just set it like a pleat and then added the other pleats at the side. This is why the front looks different to the line drawing.

Apart from the issue with the front tuck, I didn’t make any changes. The instructions for Lekala patterns are very basic, so I just took a quick glance through the half page of instructions and left it at that!

The deets
Fabric:  Atelier Brunette cotton gauze “Terrazo Night” from Miss Maude at Fabric-a-Brac Carterton, Wairarapa July 2018
Notions:  Interfacing for the neck facing and thread
Pattern:  Lekala blouse 4664, sized to fit me
Changes made:  I removed the front tuck because I couldn’t work out how the tuck would stay in the fabric without being stitched. Apart from that, no changes were made.
Another one/recommendations:  I have worn this blouse so much. The fit isn’t great over the top of the arms and if that front tuck was there it would fit a whole lot better in the front, but it doesn’t mean I wear it any less.

Whether I make another one, I’m not sure yet. If I could suss out that front tuck, then maybe I’d give it another go. But hey, I have a blouse in my wardrobe which I love to wear.

Ready to Sew Jilly Top

This is actually a make from this year, but, it’s not on my Make Nine. Pfft, that doesn’t matter, it’s only March, still ages to go to finish that list!

We have had a warm summer this year and I really wanted something tank top style to wear. I have umpteen dresses and also my Ogden camis, but I was looking for something with a bit more cover. Cue the Ready to Sew Jilly Top. To be honest, I can’t remember how I found this, but I think I was just browsing for recommended tank patterns in Google and this was on a blog post recommending. I’d not heard of the company or the top before, so thought I’d do a bit of digging around. There are not many in the wild and those that are are mainly the tie front versions, which I didn’t want. Oh well, let’s go for it, the mad part of my brain said!

The company, Ready to Sew, is French, but they have instructions in English too. There may be a couple of phrases which seem strange, but nothing completely untoward. The pattern is described as a “cropped tie-front top. Jilly is fitted at the shoulders and falls into a relaxed fit below the bust. Wear it during the day paired with high-waisted jeans or make it in a beautiful crepe for an elegant evening out.”

Perfect for what I needed. I had a crepe remnant which I wanted to use and thought it would work a treat. I decided to use some scrap fabric to make up a muslin and that is where it all turned to custard… I wasn’t happy with the muslin, the darts were all wrong and there was gaping around the armscye, so I decided to do an FBA. I happily did everything I normally do and the whole thing just drowned me! What a complete disaster! I know it says relaxed fit, but quite honestly this was about six sizes too big. I ended up curving the side seams slightly, and taking them in by about 3-4 inches total at the hips.

I’d lengthened it slightly and due to the lack of fabric, I ended up having to piece the hem band lining. Fortunately I had enough to ensure at least one side of the hem band wasn’t in multiple pieces.

The facings for the neck and armholes are all in one piece. I’m not completely happy with how these sit and I think to be honest I’d have been better with a neck facing and finishing the armholes with bias binding. They just don’t lay flat and also I find they are really obvious with this fabric.

I ended up unpicking so many seams on this top. It just took way longer than it should have done and now quite frankly, I’m not completely happy with it, probably due to the problems I had. I don’t think the fit is still that great either. It’s quite low under the arms and it’s still too big, but then it might be different in a more structured fabric, such as a linen. For a relatively simple tank top, it took far too long to make up. I unpicked and restitched so many seams. It’s had a reasonable amount of wear since I made it about a month ago, mainly because it’s useful and it’s cool for hot days. It also works under cardigans and looks relatively nice for work, but I definitely won’t be rushing to make another.

The deets
Fabric:  Sky blue viscose crepe, a remnant from the Fabric Warehouse in 2018.
Notions:  Thread and interfacing
Pattern:  Ready to Sew Jilly Top, size 44. Version 1 without the hem tie.
Changes made:  I did a 1” FBA, then took in the pattern by around 4” at the hip. I also lengthened the top by around an inch, I think

Another one/recommendations:  Mm, I like the hem band which adds a bit of interest. But I’m not over the moon about this top. It will get wear, since it’s a great colour and is cool for hot weather, but quite frankly after the hassle I had making it up, I’m not interested in making another just yet. I’d rather try another tank top which I don’t have to alter so much. Perhaps I may feel better by next summer when I’ve had a break from it.

New old makes

So in the interests of posting makes which I’ve made but haven’t been blogged, I have a couple of makes which I made last year.

Southport Dress – Fungi version
Ha ha, no kidding! This fabric was called Fungi or something like it. It came from a shop called Jet in Greytown. I bought it after the last Wairarapa Fabric a Brac in Carterton, the same time as I bought Les Fleurs quilting cotton which I made this dress in.

I was looking for something a bit different to make up another Southport dress and this fits the bill perfectly. It’s a beautiful soft cotton and works well for this dress. Casting my mind back… I made the same changes to the bodice as last time:

  • raised the front neckline by around an inch
  • also raised the underarm by around half inch
  • lengthened the bodice by around 1.5 inches
  • omitted the buttonholes and stitched the buttons through both plackets

Even though this is the short version, I ended up lengthening the short skirt, probably by around a couple of inches. I also made exactly the same change to the waist as before, attaching a casing to the inside waist and then inserting elastic. Again, the front skirt is cut on the fold, no need for a seam here.

One thing I am going to mention is the pockets in this beauty. They deserve a mention. The dress comes with pockets and what fantastic pockets they are! They are the perfect size to put all sorts of rubbish in. 😉

The deets
Fabric:  Pink fungi patterned fabric from Jet in Greytown. Buttons from stash.
Notions:  Thread, buttons, interfacing and elastic
Pattern:  True Bias Southport dress, size 14
Changes made:  Raised the front neckline, shortened the armscye to make the underarm higher, lengthened the bodice, shortened the skirt, omitted the button holes, moved the waist casing to the inside and inserted elastic, cut the front skirt on the fold.


Another one/recommendations:  Well, I don’t know if I’ll make another, but I have practically lived in this dress this summer. I made it at the end of last summer, so it didn’t get lots of wear, but this year, I have worn it, washed it, worn it, washed it! The colour means that it doesn’t show every bit of dirt, so I’ve worn it for gardening as well as meeting up with friends. We went camping at New Year and it was perfect for that. The fabric didn’t crease screwed up and I had something comfy to throw on in the mornings. I think it’s pretty easy to say, I love this dress, but as we know often the fabric makes the pattern!

Papercut Sapporo – the quiet version 🙂
Nice and subtle colours this one! I love my other Sapporo with the liquorice allsorts lining, but it’s quite lightweight so I thought why not make another for the cooler weather.

This lovely bright pink wool came from the Fabric Warehouse in Wellington, I think around three years ago. It’s been maturing in stash waiting for it to suddenly shout out for the perfect pattern. The lining is a beautiful hand printed silk which I bought in Thailand in 2013, so even longer ago!

The Sapporo coat has had a lot of bad press. I’m not saying what is wrong and what is right, I’m not qualified to do so. What I will say is that I have now made two of these and am very happy with both. The oversize style means that a pleat which you would often find in a coat lining is not necessary. I’ve not noticed any problems with how the pattern is put together or pattern pieces not lining up.

For my first version, I used the main coat fabric for lining the sleeves. For this wool version, I cut the sleeve linings. For a couple of inches at the cuffs, I used the main pink wool. For the rest of the lining, I used my lining material to reduce bulk. It worked a treat and has gone together really easily.

My front mitred corners are perfect. Just check this out!

The deets
Fabric:  Bright pink wool coating from The Fabric Warehouse prob 2015 (I used around 1.8m of 150cm wide). Hand printed silk for the lining from Thailand in 2013 (Being hand printed, I actually only had 2m of 100cm wide, the pattern recommends 2.3m of 114cm)
Notions:  Thread and interfacing
Pattern:  Papercut Sapporo Coat, size S/M, my measurements put me in a L/XL with Papercut, so this is an indication of how oversized this is.
Changes made:  I cut the sleeve linings in two, so that I could make a cuff from the outer fabric and use lining for the rest of it.


Another one/recommendations:  I’m not sure on another of these. I have two which now cover most seasons, so this may be enough. I got away with less than the fabric recommendations simply because I used lining for the sleeve linings. Those sleeve pattern pieces are not small, so need quite a bit of fabric. If you intend to line the sleeve with lining fabric, remember you’ll need more than the pattern states. The pattern has now been re-released and also includes a cropped version which is quite cute…

I love both Sapporo coats. This pink version I made at the end of the winter, so it’s not had masses of wear yet, but I just know it’s going to get some wear and being so bright, it’s going to be great on a gloomy winter’s day. It’s got room to layer up under it and once I have a nice warm scarf wrapped around me, I’m going to be so snug in this coat!

Jennifer Lauren Handmade Sorrel Dress

This cute shirt dress pattern from Jennifer Lauren Handmade was released in December 2018 as part of a Kickstarter campaign to produce paper patterns. I received the paper pattern in June 2019 by the time the Kickstarter had finished and all the patterns went to print. I was determined to make this from the paper pattern to give that first pattern a good test. It’s been a while since I’ve made one of Jen’s patterns, but all those I’ve made so far have been a great fit and style.

Off I went to shop my stash, well then I couldn’t find the perfect fabric in my stash. Of course! So why not plagiarise in the best possible way, I went to the Miss Maude website and purchased some of the beautiful Atelier Brunette cotton double gauze. This is Stardust Amarante, the two sample versions on the JLH website are in different colourways, so not completely copying, but imitation in its sincerest form 🙂 It is the most beautiful fabric to sew with. Well worth the cost!

This pattern comes in a great size range and I’ve seen versions on many sizes which is great. It also offers cup sizes, so the bust sizing ranges from a 6A (bust size 74cm or 29″) all the way to a 24D (bust 126.5cm or 48 3/4″). There are also two different versions, one with a grown on placket and the other with a separate button placket. It also has pockets! 🙂

I chose to make the version with the grown on placket which is view 2. No reason behind this really. It could have been a bit of laziness, in not wanting to cut out more pieces! I’ve also managed to just about hide the Atelier Brunette bows under the plackets, but they’re still visible if necessary.

I didn’t have any problems making up this pattern. I made up a size 16 D cup, based on my bust and waist measurements, also based on the finished measurements too.

I lengthened the bodice by half inch, which is pretty standard for me for many patterns. The best thing is, this pattern has pockets! They’re also a great size. Plenty of room for all sorts of rubbish in these pockets!

I love how the grown on cap sleeves fit. I’ve some other patterns with grown on sleeves, but they just don’t fit as well, these have a great fit.

The buttons, I didn’t follow the button diagram on the pattern. I noted where my bust line lay and then used my SimFlex sewing gauge to give the positions of the other buttons, ensuring one is also at the waist. The buttons themselves look expensive, but these actually came from Pete’s Emporium in Lower Hutt. Their button wall is one of my fave places to look for buttons! I think I originally looked at five different buttons, whittling it down to two and bought them both finally deciding to use these gold buttons!

The deets
Fabric:  Atelier Brunette cotton gauze, Stardust Amarante colour from Miss Maude NZ
Notions:  Thread, interfacing and buttons
Pattern:  Jennifer Lauren Handmade Sorrel dress, view 2, size 16D.
Changes made/recommendations:  This is a lovely dress. The fit is great. It may be a bit loose in the waist, but actually it doesn’t need a tight waist. I put a belt on this once and never again. Sacks of potatoes done up in the middle spring to mind! I love the fold out collar giving a great V neck. I think this pattern would look great made up in a viscose giving more drape. If I was to make this up in a viscose I would definitely take the waist in more. Actually looking at these photos, it looks like there’s excess in the back bodice, perhaps I might do with going down a back size to the 14?

The paper patterns from JLH have very fine tissue. There’s quite a lot with this pattern with the different bust sizes. The JLH fantastic instructions which we’ve got to know are in a booklet. The layout of the booklet is great, there’s no trying to fit lots on a page to save paper, etc. As usual the instructions from Jen are clear and easy to follow. They’re broken up into sections with headers. The booklet also includes a glossary and space to write your own notes in the back. The pattern is then in an envelope about the same size as a big 4 envelope, so it will fit with all your other printed patterns in storage.

The Atelier Brunette fabric is also fantastic. It was lovely to cut and sew with. Very well behaved fabric, beautiful to the touch and works perfectly for this pattern.

Scroop Patterns Otari and Fantail

Scroop Patterns are local to me and I’ve been eyeing them up for a while. These are the first Scroop patterns I’ve made and I love them. I am so happy these two are in my collection. Both have had a lot of wear since I finished them. It’s taken me a long while to take photos of these since I really wanted to go to Otari Wilton’s Bush in Wellington. It just hasn’t happened, so you’ll have to put up with Pukekura Park in New Plymouth, when I went up for work the other week. Parts of this park are like the bush, but much of it is very much more manicured. It was also very hot and muggy and wearing a hoodie was the last thing I wanted to do! There’s also a couple taken on our deck worn with the matching dress – too matchy matchy? Pfft, I don’t care! 🙂

Otari Hoodie
First up, the hoodie. I actually made this just over a year ago. Leimomi ran a Sew Along at the end of 2018, I had the pattern and the fabric, so I decided to join in. I made up view A hood with the pockets from view B. You may also recognise the fabric! It’s exactly the same as one of the sample versions made for the pattern launch, oh and it’s also what was leftover from one of my Kitschy Coo Lady Skater dresses!

The Sew Along was really good to follow, it meant that I actually followed and sewed this hoodie up relatively slowly, since I was waiting for each sewalong post to be published. I found each post really helpful, but I do admit to whizzing through posts 1 to 7 very fast. I certainly found it helpful with attaching the zip and finishing. The extra tips and information throughout were invaluable. Plus there are lots of fab photos and you all know how much I love photos in sewing instructions.I love the extra touches for this. On the inside at the back of the zip ribbon is used to cover the tape and completely enclose any raw edges. I decided to use this elephant tape which I’ve had in my ribbon/tape box for some time.

Other great touches include lining for the hood and lining for the pockets. For these I used some pale grey and white cotton knit left over from this Renfrew tee. This fabric is also used for the neck binding. This covers all the raw edges where the hood is attached to the main body of the hoodie.

I also decided to use cord endings to finish off the cord through the hood.

The deets
Fabric:  Pale blue denim look knit from The Fabric Warehouse, grey/white stripe cotton knit from Fabric-a-Brac
Notions:  Lots – open ended zip, elephant printed tape for the back of the zip, cotton ribbon for the hood ties, grommets for the ribbon to go through on the hood ties, interfacing, cord endings for the hood ties
Pattern:  Scroop Patterns Otari Hoodie, size 40 based on my bust measurement
Changes made/recommendations:  I really recommend this hoodie. The fit is awesome, the drafting is so good, with some neat touches, such as the pointed hood or the cloud type pockets. The instructions along with the sew-a-long make this a relatively simple sew. So much help when you might get confused.

I have worn this so much since I finished it just over a year ago. It’s been a great addition. The fabric choice means it goes with so many things. The fit makes it so comfy. It’s a big fat love!

Fantail skirt
The Scroop Fantail skirt is another of those which I just had to have! I love that front A-line shape and then the pleats on the back for the added interest.

It’s taken me some time to make up because I was after the “perfect” fabric for this. I eventually found this pale grey linen from The Fabric Store. In hindsight, it may not be the perfect fabric since being linen it creases so much and you lose the effect of the pleats on the back, but that’s not put me off this skirt at all!

This skirt is not as involved as the hoodie and is a lot quicker to sew up. The main thing is getting those pleats on the back nice and even. I had to unpick mine on one side, they just weren’t even first off. It’s definitely worth taking your time over these.

The rest of the pattern is really quick and easy to sew. There is an invisible zip in the centre back. I always add a fine interfacing to the seam if I’m sewing in invisible zip now. It’s a great tip I picked up from somewhere and makes invisible zips sew in so much easier, particularly if the fabric is off the grain, like it is with this skirt.

I really wish I’d checked on the website beforehand for the hack to add pockets. I miss pockets in this skirt so much. Due to the shape and design, it’s not just a case of adding these to the side seam. Mainly because there is no side seam, these are side panels and a pocket added to the off centre seams on that simple, smooth A-line front just wouldn’t work. They need much more stability and the front of the skirt doesn’t need any dragging, hence the pocket hack is the way to go with an angled drop pocket in the side panel. The full hack is here and I definitely think I’ll be checking this out next time.

The hem is very narrow. I finished mine with pale blue hug snug. The pattern suggests bias tape. Either work.

The deets
Fabric:  Pale grey linen from The Fabric Store
Notions:  Invisible zip, interfacing, hook and eye for the waistband fastening, hug snug for the hem
Pattern:  Scroop Patterns Fantail Skirt (modern version), size 40 based on my waist measurement
Changes made/recommendations:  The only change I really made was to use waistband stiffening for the waistband rather than the waistband pattern piece. It’s probably me being lazy, but I find it easy to apply and also ensure the waistband is attached neatly.

As for the skirt, well I finished this just before Christmas and it’s definitely been worth making. The fabric means it’s cool for the summer. I love the simplicity and smooth lines of the front of this skirt and those pleats fanning out on the back adding interest and creating a swish and fullness. I’m wondering if I have any viscose or something more drapy in my stash so I can make another. As with the hoodie, the instructions are really clear and easy to follow. I definitely recommend making these up.

I’m now off to check out the other Scroop Patterns which I’ve been eyeing up – Eastbourne Trousers, I’m looking at you…                 

Time to get active

Time to start the new year of blog posting. I’m going to try to catch up this year (famous last words!) So this post includes a couple of tops made a while back.

Starting with the first of my #MakeNine2020 – gym tops. No I’m not on a New Year fitness binge, I reguarly head to the gym and also do Pilates. I have terrible trouble trying to find patterns for workout tops. So many have twists, ties, knots, are loose at the bottom, etc. Please designers, these don’t work, Pilates involves lying on the floor, rolling, doing downward dog, etc. Knots, twists, ties and loose bottoms just don’t work.

There’s actually four tops here, two Cashmerette Spruce Tops, one based on a RTW top I have and another loosely based on the Papercut Undercover Hood. The fabric for all but one has come from the Fabric Fairy. I’ve placed two orders with them for performance fabric and the delivery was so fast.

Cashmerette Spruce Top
I actually bought this pattern a while ago when it was named the Cedar workout top and dolman sleeve top. There were two patterns combined together. They’ve recently been split into two patterns and some additional changes made. This workout top is now the Spruce top. It now has an additional enclosed back and some cap sleeves. The pattern has princess seams down the front and a yoke on the back giving a great fit.

The first version of this, I made back in October 2018. I made the original version with an open back and straps across the back. The pink performance knit came from The Fabric Fairy and the fold over elastic used to finish the armholes and neckline were bought locally (but I can’t remember where from!)

 

For this open back version the straps across the back are shown on the pattern as made up using the self fabric. I decided to use the fold over elastic, it looks way better.

The second version of this top, I made using the latest version of the pattern and used the new top back yoke which is completely enclosed. I didn’t use the cap sleeves. I also made this version with a front scoop/round neck.

I didn’t use fold over elastic, I decided I wouldn’t be able to find any which really matched this dark plum colour I made it up in. So I made the bindings using the main fabric. I decided for comfort to take out 1cm from the front armscye. On my first version, it cuts in slightly. This second one is a better fit.

The deets
Fabric:  Pink performance knit from The Fabric Fairy, dark plum performance knit from Fabric-a-Brac, both bought some time ago.
Notions:  Fold over elastic for one and nothing additional to the thread for the other.
PatternCashmerette Spruce top, size 12, cup size E/F
Changes made:  For the pink version, I used FOE for the straps across the back. For the second plum version, I used the self-fabric for the bindings and decided to take out 1cm from the front of the armscye, more for comfort.


Another one/recommendations:  For a workout top pattern, I really like this. The seaming allows for colour blocking. The cup sizes on the pattern also mean you can get a really good fit. There are no knots and ties. It’s also a great length which allows for lots of stretching and still able to look decent not showing pounds of flesh. Definitely recommended. It’s also a really quick sew. I cut this out in about an hour and then managed to sew it up the next day in about the same time!

RTW knock-off
This top is a knock-off of a RTW sports top I bought from Uniqlo a few years ago. It’s sleeveless, round necked and has side panels. It’s always been really comfy for the gym and I find the shape really works well for moving around, etc. So I thought, why shouldn’t I flat copy it?

I did a course at Made Marion in Wellington, some time ago, on making a pattern from an existing garment. I know this isn’t the most difficult of shapes to copy, but I still found it useful. I now have a flat pattern copy of this top. Since the original isn’t that long, I’ve also added an additional couple of inches to the hem.

I used some more performance knit from the Fabric Fairy. There’s a navy blue and a pale blue. Both of these have a soft-touch feel. I don’t have much of the pale blue, so decided to make this up with pale blue side inserts and also used this for the neck and armhole binding. It’s a bit showy, but who cares? It works and it passes the movement test!

The deets
Fabric:  Navy and pale blue soft touch performance knit from The Fabric Fairy.
Notions:  Just thread
Pattern:  Knock-off from a Uniqlo RTW top
Changes made:  From the original, I just lengthened by a couple of inches.


Another one:  I now have a copy of this top in my stash and since it works so well, I may make another, since my tops get frequent wear.

Undercover hood T-shirt
What I really thought would be useful would be a raglan sleeved T-shirt which I could use for Pilates and the gym. I couldn’t believe when I looked through my pattern collection and I had no raglan sleeved T-shirt patterns! Yes, really. Then while looking through, I realised there’s a sweatshirt version of the Papercut Undercover Hood, so why shouldn’t I just use that pattern?

For the pattern, I removed the hem band and curved the hem slightly to it is about an inch higher on the side seams. I then hemmed this with my double needle. For the sleeves, I just cut these at an arbitrary length, which I think was around 4” from the underarm seam.

The deets
Fabric:  Bright blue performance knit from The Fabric Fairy.
Notions:  Just thread
PatternPapercut Undercover Hood, size M
Changes made:  Removed the hem band, curved the hem, shortened the sleeves to around 4” long including hem
Another one/recommendations:  This is worked really well, but I’ve not actually worn this top much, mainly because it’s the summer holidays and my Pilates class isn’t running. It’s also quite a warm top to wear to the gym, which will be perfect in the winter!

I’ve worn all these tops a number of times and they’re working well in my wear for an hour of so for sweaty gym workouts, in the machine to be washed, ready for the next workout. The Cashmerette tops I find sometimes ride up and gather around the bottom of my sports bra, but apart from that, I’ve no worries. They’re not perfect, I can see the neck and armhole bindings are slightly gapey, but to be honest I don’t care. I’ve made them and they work AND they’re not covered in knots, ties and aren’t loose – RESULT!