#2019MakeNine – the end

I’m glad I did this and actually enjoyed it! This was the first time I’d set up a Make Nine for the year and although I often make way more than nine things in a year, I was good to have a focus for the year. I also think selecting specific fabrics from stash was also a much better idea than specifying nine patterns, for a start it made me focus on using my stash rather than buying new fabrics.

I did make more than my Make Nine (I’m way behind on my blogging), but I can quite happily tick off eight of my original nine. The other ninth won’t happen until I can find a pattern which works (it probably doesn’t help that Mr N doesn’t really like the fabric!)

Project One:  Swimwear
Consider this completed!
I used the fabric and made up the Jazz Tankini from Swim Style Patterns. Not perfect, I should have done an FBA, but I’ve used this tankini loads. It was used on holiday in Raro and I used it lots for our spa tub in the garden.
The blog post is here.

Project Two:  Burda 7767 (men’s shirt)
I’ve actually made two shirts for Mr N this year. One in the middle of the year and the other I finished for Christmas. Yes, I used the blue and white stripe for one shirt. The second I used some awesome NZ fern fabric.

Project Three:  Frangipani dress
Completed! I did not use either of the patterns I originally thought to use. I made it up using Simplicity 2444, mainly based on the fact that I used the pattern for some other fabric not long before and decided I liked the fit and I really wanted something relatively quick to make up.

Project Four:  Papercut Patterns Sapporo Coat
Completed and I love this coat!

I even made up another one, which needs at least a basic blog post.

Project Five:  Baby somethings!
Lots and lots of baby somethings have been made up. A blanket, dribble bibs, cardigans, mittens, hats, booties and a penguin cocoon.

Plus even more which hasn’t been blogged yet!

Project Six:  McCalls 6696
All completed and even used the fabric I thought I would use. Definitely a success.

Project Seven:  Teal tartan coat
This didn’t happen. Mr N doesn’t really like the fabric and I really wanted to make something with a hood. I couldn’t find anything which I liked and would work with the amount of fabric I had. 😦 I’m still keen to make something. I’ll continue looking, thinking, cogitating and ruminating.

Project Eight:  True Bias Ogden Cami
Strangely I only made up one, but used one of the fabrics I intended to use at least. I’m conscious this pattern needs some fixing for me, so I might even try something else. Or add bust darts to cater for an FBA.

Project Nine:  Nightwear
All done! This nightie is in constant use. The colours make me feel so cheerful when I wake up in the morning.

There will be a #2020MakeNine, I’m working these out at the moment!

Burda 7767 – the last five iterations

This is now my go-to shirt pattern for Mr N. I’ve made this up ten times now and is actually my most used pattern! It probably cost me around $20 to buy around seven years ago, so I call that good value for money now! 🙂

I’m that behind on blogging, that I’m including the last five in this post. They are probably going back two years – oops! Mr N has a penchant for bright Hawai’ian style shirts in the summer, so two of these are very bright.

As usual I can’t convince Mr N (or my in-house chef as I sometimes call him) to pose just so I can get some blog photos – he hates having his photo taken anyway; so you’ll just have to cope with photos on the hanger or lay-flat today.

Apologies for the moire in some photos – narrow stripes do not photograph well, nor does black.

There are a few changes I make as standard, which I’ll list here, along with the other changes I’ve made

  • Grade out at hip to the size 46, from the size 42 chest/neck
  • Lengthen the shirt by 1¼ inches
  • Long sleeves are shortened by 2cm and taken in to a size 38/40 cuff
  • Three of these shirts have short sleeves, I basically cut the sleeves at 5½ inches length, overlock the bottom edge and then fold at ¼ inch and ¾ inch. These are so much quicker to make with no placket and cuffs!
  • Two of the short sleeve versions have side vents.
  • One final version has an open V-neck.

Generally I flat-fell all seams, including the reverse flat-fell for the armholes. The pattern doesn’t actually suggest this. I also use the burrito method for the back yoke, from the Thread Theory website. (I like this version as the fabric they use as a clear front and reverse.) The open-necked version, I just overlocked the edges and stitched them as a standard flat seam. Definitely a very relaxed version.

The variations
Fabric 1: Black stretch cotton with an embroidered stripe, I don’t know where this came from, possibly The Fabric Warehouse, but it’s been in stash a while. All top stitching completed with a pale green thread. The main buttons are paua shell and the cuff buttons are shiny owls (possibly from Made Marion.)
Fabric 2: Grey and white spot Robert Kaufman chambray which came from Fabric Drop in December 2017, a small NZ online store which is now closing down. Small white buttons for the button placket. This shirt has short sleeves. All top stitching is in white. There are vents on the side seams.
Fabric 3 (African print): This is the loud version! The African print fabric was brought back from the UK by Kat the creator of Muse Patterns. I’ve also made up a waistcoat (not yet blogged) in this and there is some left for me! This version has short sleeves and an open V-neck. This took a bit of working out and stupidly didn’t note what I did. I have a sinking feeling I did it off the cuff (so to speak) and so don’t have the pattern to repeat it. Note to self – short this out! The seams are just overlocked and pressed flat. It also has vents on the side seams. The purple buttons came from Pete’s Emporium in Porirua.
Fabric 4:  A pale blue and white striped linen cotton (not sure where from). This is a long-sleeved shirt, made this year sometime back in May, I think. All top stitching is in white. The front buttons and the lion cuff buttons came from Pete’s Emporium in Lower Hutt.
Fabric 5:  A last minute purchase about in the middle of December this year when I decided to make a shirt for Christmas! The fabric is a NZ-themed fabric from Spotlight (this was bought in Whangarei). The shirt has bright green top-stitching. The yellow/green buttons came from Pete’s Emporium in Lower Hutt. This version has short-sleeves.

Pattern: Burda 7767 (which I think is now out of print)

Notions: In addition to the buttons. I’ve been trying different types of interfacing for the collars and cuffs. I found some great stiffer interfacing for the collars, but could only find it in white. For the more relaxed short-sleeve summer shirts, I tend to apply the interfacing to only one collar and stand piece rather than both.
Changes made: These are all detailed above.
Another one/recommendations:  I doubt I’m done with this pattern. I definitely recommend it if you can get hold of it. What I need to do is to draft out the pieces for an open necked shirt. It would be nice to ring in some changes, so I might try to incorporate some changes in future versions.

A sweat of shirts (?) or aye aye Nelson…

I couldn’t find the collective noun for shirts, so asked Mr N (the in-house chef), he came up with “a sweat”, mm, not convinced! 🙂 The other photos, they look like Admiral Nelson!

The in-house chef is not a fan of posing for photos, and consequently the resident dress form (she is yet to be named) offered to pose for me. Now please note, the shirts are made for a male and the dress form is female, although they don’t look too bad on her!

7767-frontsI made the first shirt for the in-house chef four years ago. I used Burda 7767 having seen the many versions on Homemade by Carolyn‘s blog. I’ve made four more in the last four years – yeah, one a year, I’m so generous. Unfortunately a lot of the fabrics are narrow stripes and so we have some fine examples of moire – sorry, not sure how to get rid of that.

shirt-backsI’ve had to make some changes since my first iteration of this pattern. The in-house chef has one of those stomachs which has “taken years of honing and looking after” – you know the type? And so I cut a size 42 in the chest and grade out to halfway between a 44 and 46 for the waist/hip area. He also has short arms and small wrists (like me) and so I shorten the arms by 2cm and grade them in at the wrist to a size 40. Other than that, they are as the pattern. All seams are flat felled and everything is top stitched where you would expect it, ie collars and cuffs.

7767-collarsFollowing on from my first version, I always finish the cuffs with a larger metallic button to look like a cufflink.

7767-cufflinksThe variations
Fabric 1: Quite stiff pale grey and white striped cotton with dark grey buttons. Cufflinks are metallic owls. The fabric I think came from The Fabric Store, the buttons no doubt would have come from Made Marion.
Fabric 2: Blue and white stripe. I think it’s a poly cotton. It’s quite thick, but requires little ironing. I’m unsure where it’s from now. Small blue buttons for the front and the cufflinks have thistles on them.
Fabric 3 (the rainbow shirt): Plain blue cotton from The Fabric Store. I bought it for something else, then saw a shirt like this somewhere and just had to copy it. The fabric is plain and so I used multicoloured shell buttons from Made Marion for the front. The cufflinks are circular metal buttons. I also used this multicoloured cotton top-stitching thread for all top stitching and seams.

img_1364Fabric 4 (the Paul Hollywood shirt): Narrow grey and white stripe (a bugger to sew) I think from the Fabric Warehouse. I didn’t have enough and so lined the collar, cuffs and button band with a shot purple cotton (that’s been in my stash for ages). The front buttons are small purple coloured wooden buttons. The in-house chef then chose the solid looking square buttons (they aren’t metal and are very lightweight.)

img_1348Pattern: Burda 7767 (which I think is now out of print)

b6cae-x07767burdaNotions: In addition to the buttons. I’ve been trying different types of interfacing for the collars and cuffs. I found some great stiffer interfacing for the collars, but could only find it in white.
Changes made: I cut a size 42 in the chest and grade out to halfway between a 44 and 46 for the waist/hip area. Mr N also has short arms and small wrists (like me) and so I shorten the arms by 2cm and grade them in at the wrist to a size 40.