Papercut Kobe

So my love affair with Papercut continues!

This is from the latest Sakura collection and is the Kobe top/dress. I couldn’t resist this pattern as soon as I saw it. The back neckline is a great touch.

The fabric you may also have seen on my blog before, but in a different colourway! This version came as a remnant from The Fabric Warehouse here in Wellington. This is a bargain top at around $5. 🙂 It made this a wearable muslin.

The pattern. I bought this as a paper pattern, so enjoyed the whole process of cutting out the instructions and making them into a booklet before cutting the pattern pieces from the Papercut’s thick paper. I’ve said this before and I’ll say it again. Papercut’s instructions are very clear and easy to follow, with clear images. They are perfect for a beginner. Reminders to possibly make a toile, and also to pre-wash the fabric.

I made up a size L which is my normal Papercut size based on my full bust. To be honest I’m probably between an M and an L. This top is meant to be oversized, but I certainly feel this L is too big. Looking at the images on the Papercut website, the shoulders are intended to be slightly low, but this size for this pattern is definitely too big.

I made a couple of changes. The front is quite high (around waist height). I lengthened the front by around 2 inches and also shortened the back by around the same amount. The original back length is long. The back length kept dragging the top back. It still has the high-low hem but still drags back and I have to keep pulling the top forward.However, I actually really love this top and want to make another! 🙂

I love the pleats on the back of the neck and the way these are joined together with a button. I had this wee heart button in my stash (it was the only one) and is perfect for the job.

The deets
Fabric:  Polyester crepe from The Fabric Warehouse, April 2017
Notions:  Thread, button
Pattern:  Papercut Kobe, top version
Changes made:  Front lengthened by 2 inches, back shortened by 2 inches

Another one/recommendations:  As mentioned, as much as this is too big, I’m so in love with the pattern that I really want to make another one. I’ll try again and make a smaller size, so probably the medium based on my high bust.. I’ll also thinking I might keep front and back the same length. I’m not sure I like a cropped front, it shows off my food baby! I’d love to make up the dress, but I’d definitely need some definition.

As an aside, the skirt is also new! It’s another Paprika Patterns Jade skirt – that’s three now. I definitely love this skirt pattern. I actually made it this time following the pattern, ie lined the back and also made the waistband curved as on the pattern.

I think the back lining works, as it encloses all the raw side seams, but I’m entirely happy with the waistband. Previously, I’ve cut it from one piece and folded it over. This time, I have a seam at the top and used the curved pattern pieces. Even though I used a stretch stitch, it’s still coming undone and there’s more bulk. I’d have done better to use my instinct and make it as previously, ie straight and in one piece.

The deets
Fabric:  Pale green ponte from The Fabric Warehouse, July 2017
Notions:  Thread, elastic
Pattern:  Paprika Patterns Jade skirt, size 7, made to fit my hips.
Changes made:  Side seams taken in at the waist by an inch each side.

Another one/recommendations: Mm possibly not finished with this pattern just yet. This is number three, one being here and two, I’ve just realised has been photographed, but never blogged – oops! It’s such a fab pattern, so I’m sure I’ll be making another at some point soon.

These photos were taken in Melbourne about a month ago on the balcony of our AirBnB. Five of us went across to celebrate a ‘0’ birthday for a friend and had a blast, eating too much, drinking lots, walking lots, shopping, and generally having a good time! And before you ask, due to the walking in not good shoes, my weak left ankle decided it would swell up and annoy me, hence the strap. No, I’m not after sympathy, I should have worn better shoes!

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Papercut hoodie love

Never in my life did I ever think I’d wear a hoodie, let alone make one. I’ve a feeling Mr N still isn’t that impressed, but it’s great for walking and heading to pilates (the hood gets in the way during class).

This is Papercut’s Undercover Hoodie. It’s such a great relaxed pattern. It was an easy make too. Raglan sleeves make this so quick to sew and easy to wear.

I normally make up a large in Papercut sizing, but went with a medium for this, it has so much ease. As you can probably tell, I went with the longer version and lengthened it more so it covers my bum and keeps it nice and warm. It also covers the bit I hate the most about my body. 🙂 I’m happy with this length.

I put most of this together using my overlocker, but used my machine to attach the pockets and make the channel for the ribbon. The hood is lined, so there’s no inside of the fabric showing.

I chose to use a bright pink ribbon for the hood ties. They will never be used, but that pink just adds the pop of colour needed to bring this fabric alive.

The fabric is a grey cotton knit jersey I bought November 2015 from the Fabric Store in Wellington. You may recognise it, since I also used it to make up my first Juliet cardigan. I bought so much of this that there was enough left to make up the hoodie.

The deets
Fabric:  Cotton knit jersey from The Fabric Store, November 2015
Notions:  Thread, pink grosgrain ribbon from stash
Pattern:  Papercut Undercover Hood, size M
Changes made:  Lengthened long version by 2-3 inches

Another one/recommendations:  I didn’t think I’d make another but I’m actually thinking I might make a sweatshirt version, just cos it’s so comfy. Then I can use it for pilates during the cooler months, since the hood won’t get in the way!

It’s a really great pattern, so easy to make up and honestly if the fact that I never in my life thought I’d wear a hoodie isn’t enough of a recommendation, I don’t know what is! This honestly gets worn a lot!

Thanks to Mel for taking these photos when we headed up the coast in June. This children’s park is in Levin, I love it and it makes me wish I was a kid again! 🙂

Indie Royalty

As I mentioned in my last post, I’ve been sewing up a storm for Indie Pattern Month over at The Monthly Stitch. The final week’s theme is Indie Royalty, time to proclaim my Indie Pattern regal status by making and blogging a whole outfit made from Indie Patterns. I’m not sure what to call this combined outfit, so here we have my outfit!

We have the Opal Cardigan from Paprika Patterns, True Bias Ogden cami and Magdalena Langa Camellia skirt.

Opal Cardigan

I’ve been eyeing this pattern up ever since it was released. The orange sample version on the Paprika Patterns site, I love. I just needed to see a couple more in the wild and my mind was made up.

I decided on view B but with a round neck. This view is thigh length and has patch pockets.

This fabric is a wool with very little stretch which came from Clementime: Oamaru Silk Centre in Oamaru on South Island. It has a pale grey back and the front has a pale pink lacy front. It was not cheap! But I fell in love with it and it had to come back with me. Straight away it was going to be a coatigan and this seemed the perfect pattern. The problem was it was so thick, my poor machine really didn’t like sewing it once I got more than two layers. Attaching the pockets and the neck binding was not easy. The neck binding is stitched to the main body of the coatigan by hand, it was not possible to stitch it down as I might normally.

The pattern is easy to follow. It’s not a difficult pattern anyway, but the instructions and images were clear and if I’d got a thinner fabric it would have gone together a lot quicker! I even managed to break a needle on my overlocker due to the thickness! Ouch!

I’m not sure why my pockets are so high. I thought I’d followed the position on the pattern, but it seems not! They are quite high and look a bit odd, however due to the fabric thickness and the fact it’s a nighmare to unpick this the pockets will have to stay put for now!

My version also seems to be a lot bigger than the samples online. I increased the seam allowances to 5/8″ to cope with the thick fabric and sewed them as such, but it still seems to be big. Perhaps I should have cut between a size 4 an 6.

The deets
Fabric:  Double thickness wool from the Oamaru Silk Centre.
Notions:  Thread
Pattern:  Paprika Patterns Opal Cardigan, size 6
Changes made:  None really, except to increase the seam allowances to 5/8″.

Another one/recommendations:  Even though I’m kinda on the fence about this one in the end, it could most likely be due to my fabric choice. I like it, but it is just really big, it’s very cosy though! I might just try it again with a more forgiving fabric. I will lower the pockets an also shorten the sleeves. It’s just difficult with this fabric to unpick anything. I had to use my walking foot with a ball point needle with the longest stitch length and very narrow zig zag.

Ogden Cami

Definitely late to the party with this one. So many of these have been in the blogasphere and I’ve only just made one up. Being this late to the party means you can read lots and lots of other sewers comments and reviews. Result 🙂

Taking other reviews on board, I raised the front neckline and also made the straps a bit wider. I lengthened the whole thing by about an inch and a half. I also lengthened the facing, I read somewhere that someone else with larger girls needed to lengthen the cami and the facing to make it sit better over those larger girls than on the True Bias sample!

The fabric was a remnant which I got from somewhere! (I honestly cannot remember where from!) There wasn’t enough to make the facings, so I used a similar fabric in plain black.

Since this was really intended to be a muslin, I finished the seams with my overlocker rather than using French seams which might have been better with this fine fabric. However, I’m really impressed with my rolled hem. Check this out!

I think raising the neckline must have shifted the alignment of the straps and they drag into the middle showing off my bra straps. It’s a shame, since I actually really like this top. I’m sure I can find some contraption to pull the neck wide to cover my straps though. I hardly used the instructions, it wasn’t rocket science to put together and went together so quickly.

The deets
Fabric:  I’m not sure, something floaty and fine which I got as a remnant. Lined with a black silk crepe.
Notions:  Thread
Pattern:  True Bias Ogden Cami, size 14
Changes made:  Front neckline raised, straps widened, shell lengthened and facing also lengthened.

Another one/recommendations:  This was intended to be a muslin and this is definitely a wearable one. I don’t care that it doesn’t cover my bra straps, cos I love it! When that summer comes (it’s oh so far away at the moment), I’ll be making more. I definitely need them from floaty fabric, or I’ll need to take in the hips, else I’ll be looking a tad pregnant! I’ve worn this quite a bit already. I went across to Sydney for work the other week and it was perfect for the evenings with a cardi on top.

Camellia skirt

What’s that pattern, I hear you say? Yeah, this is not a well known designer, but check this out. It’s a lined pencil skirt with four darts, three pleats and a back vent.

I saw this skirt on Sew Mariefleur‘s blog and was hooked. Mariefleur is completely a different build and shape to me, but I love me a pencil skirt! Any excuse! The fabric is a stretch polyester suiting I got from Arthur Toye here in Wellington. Arthur Toye closed in January 2014, so it’s definitely be a while sat in my stash! But the stretch makes it perfect for a pencil skirt.

I had so many problems putting this together. The instructions to make the pleats on the bodice and attach the lining were just a nightmare. The instructions are not clear at all. The images are in a different place to the words and it’s just difficult to follow. In the end, I followed my intuition and made it up. The top pleat still didn’t stay flat and I had to use teeny tiny pick stitches to ensure it laid flat. Possibly as a consequence the top pleat seems slightly misaligned, but you can’t see the pick stitches! I ended up not really using the instructions for the remainder of the make.

There is a dart on either side around hip height. It’s the strangest dart I’ve ever seen, but works. There’s also darts for the back waist.

This pattern comes without seam allowances added, so you’ll need to make sure you add these when cutting out. I added around half an inch. I wasn’t sure how the fit would be, so added that little bit extra just in case I needed to give myself more space.

I pattern does have a pocket on the back, but I decided not to add this. I also changed the zip from an invisible zip to a lapped zip. I’m not a fan of sewing invisible zips and I couldn’t find one in my stash, hence the invisible zip. The waistband I didn’t use the pattern piece for, I just used my waistband stiffening and made a straight band to fit the skirt.

The lining is a grey polyester lining I had in stash. I’d have loved a pink lining, but I wanted to use up stash rather than buy more. I decided to hem the skirt using purple hug snug.

The deets
Fabric:  Grey stretch polyester suiting with a pale pink stripe from Arthur Toye. Possibly bought in 2013, I think! A grey polyester lining from stash.
Notions:  Thread, interfacing for the waistband, zip and a button.
Pattern:  Magdalena Langa Camillia skirt, size 12. I got it from IndieSew, but it’s also available on Etsy.
Changes made:  I didn’t use the waistband piece drafting my own to fit my waistband interfacing, but other than that no changes.

Another one/recommendations:  I like my skirt and I’ve worn it a couple of times this month. I’m not sure I’ll be making another one. I don’t know what has happened to the skirt above the top pleat, it seems to have twisted on the waistband somehow. It might be the stretch fabric. It was just such a nightmare to sew the pleats, that it’s kinda put me off making another. The fit however, is really good and I’m happy I didn’t need to make any adjustments.

Phew! What a lot of photos and what a completely mixed set of items, but a whole new outfit. Time will tell if I actually wear them all. The skirt and cami already have been worn, but I need to get the coatigan in as regular wear, otherwise I can see that sitting on the shelf and not being worn.

Welcome to… the Kastulip

It’s that time of year, when I have been making up a storm for Indie Pattern Month, over at The Monthly Stitch. Having had so much success with the Kastrup blouse, I thought why not hack it and turn it into a dress, and so please may I introduce the Kastulip!

This has the bodice of the How to do Fashion Kastrup blouse and the skirt of the Style Arc Tulip dress. As you tell, it took me ages to come up with the name 😉 The dress actually took a while to decide. I knew I wanted to use the Kastrup blouse and actually put it together with 13, yes 13, different bottoms to try them out for visual effect. After consultation with a couple of friends from the ever helpful WSBN, the Kastulip was born!

The fabric is a cotton sateen from Philp-Wrights in Whanganui. Travelling around the country for work, I like to check out fabric shops when I find them and this store didn’t disappoint. So many pretties. I limited myself to two lengths, the first was used to make Burda 7031 and this tulip fabric seemed to fit the bill for this dress. Everything was a complete and utter breeze with this beautiful cotton sateen.

The Kastrup bodice needs little description, having written about it in my last post. I have made a few changes to this blouse, the side seams were taken in about an inch overall (half inch from front and back) and I also added darts in the back bodice. These have been added in line with the darts in the skirt back and are the same size. I also pressed them to the opposite side to the skirt to remove bulk.

The Tulip skirt was actually a pattern which has been in my collection a while, but I’ve never made up. I like Style Arc patterns, they are well drafted and rarely require adjustments for me, however, sometimes the instructions leave a little to be desired, writing, but few images and you all know how much I love images! I recommend sewing knowledge! This pattern is no exception. The pattern has a pleated overlay for the main feature skirt, but you can make it simple like this one. There are only instructions for the pleated overlap version, nothing at all for the basic tulip skirt. I had a read through, but basically had to use my own initiative and sewing experience to make it up. I’ve made up the Lindy Petal Skirt by Itch to Stitch, but this has added pockets. So I basically laid the front pieces on top of one another and then attached the pocket lining, folded it over to the inside and then attached the pocket back. The front hem needs to be finished before the side seams are made up. It’s cleaner this way.

I did toy with adding the waistband (from the skirt option), but it doesn’t need it. I thought I’d end up moving the skirt darts to match the princess seams, but trust me, they lined up perfectly! Honest guv’nor!

The zip has ended up as a dark pink lapped zip. I thought about an invisible zip, but I didn’t have an invisible zip long enough in my stash! I like the dark pink, it goes perfectly with the dress.

The skirt was lengthened by about and inch and a half. I possibly didn’t need that much, but a tulip skirt sat down in the summer with no tights, I didn’t want it showing everything to the world! I hemmed it using a pale blue hug snug. With the curve on the front, this doesn’t bulk up as much as the fabric.

The deets
Fabric:  White tulip patterned cotton sateen from Philp-Wrights in Whanganui, bought in December 2016.
Notions:  Thread, interfacing, a zip and some hug snug for the hem.
Pattern:  The Kastulip made from How to do fashion Kastrup blouse, version 1, size EU 42 and the skirt from the Style Arc Tulip dress, size 14.
Changes made:  The blouse back has darts added and the side seams taken in. It’s also obviously been shortened to bodice length. The skirt has been lengthened by an inch and a half.

Another one/recommendations:  I’m really enjoying hacking patterns like this. This is the third pattern hack I’ve done (previous hacks were the Gabrianna and the Fleurlicity dresses) and each one has been a success.

I could have taken in the waist a bit more with this one. Some of these photos have a belt and some don’t, mainly to illustrate how I could have taken in that front waist more. I also think the tulip isn’t quite as pronounced as it could be. Although it’s not really the time of year to wear this, (we’ve had a winter storm this week while finishing this, with freezing temperatures and snow on the hills) I reckon come summer, this will get a lot of wear. Even Mr N likes it! That’s a result!

These photos were taken down at Otari Wilton’s Bush here in Wellington. It was cold down there; the temperature gauge in the car said it was 7 degrees! I would much rather have stayed all rugged up in my coat!

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Wonderful, wonderful Kastrup

Slight play on a song tune there. Kastrup is a part of Copenhagen, Denmark (and the home of the main airport) and so “Wonderful, wonderful Copenhagen; friendly old girl of a town” etc. OK enough of that!

How to do Fashion is a new independent label for me. It was months ago when one of the WSBN who first asked the group about them on our group facebook page. After that, I was hooked. I had to have one, if not three of the patterns! I love the style of these patterns. Nanna is based in Denmark, but don’t let that worry you. All patterns have been translated into English. The printed patterns come beautifully packaged in an A4 folder tied up. They are printed on thick glossy paper which are double sided, so you will need to trace some pieces. Instructions for her patterns are all online, they’re not included in with the patterns. She also adds instructions for fitting problems, such as a sway back, etc.

So this is the first of Nanna’s patterns I’ve made up (albeit a while after buying the patterns!) and I was definitely impressed. I didn’t make up a muslin, but cut straight into this olive green textured silk I picked up from Fabric-a-Brac at some point! How brave is that? I kinda thought with a centre back seam and princess seams I could play around with the fit if it didn’t work out. I didn’t need to worry, this is a size EU 42 straight out of the tin (or the pattern envelope!)

I made up version No 1, it’s fitted with sleeves. The instructions I found really easy to follow. I’ve seen some comments saying the armhole facing is confusing to add. Mine has been fine, but perhaps not finished as tidily as I’d like. It’s taken to number three to get it finished as I’d like! I honestly found it a breeze and a pleasure to make up. Nanna has also added some additional videos and instructions for some points, just in case you’re unsure, such as how to make a thread loop for the button.

The construction is slightly different in that the neck facings are attached to the bodice pieces before attaching the sleeves. The sleeves are double layered. Then there’s a proper facing for the underarm part of the armhole rather than bias binding. I quite like this facing, it gives a nice finish.

The only thing which isn’t so good with this version, my fabric is really see through and so the facing, particularly at the neck, is really visible, I really should have doubled up the fabric. However, this was intended to be a wearable muslin, and the fabric hadn’t cost me much.

The blouse has a long split on the back of the neck done up with a button and a loop. I guess if you wanted you could use a zip up the back, but I like the button. I thought originally it would be too low and show scaffolding off, but it’s the perfect length!

The deets
Fabric:  Olive green textured silk with brown flowers, which I think came from Fabric-a-Brac (it’s been in my stash a while!)
Notions:  Thread, interfacing and a button from stash.
Pattern:  How to do fashion Kastrup blouse, version 1, size EU 42
Changes made:  It’s shorter than the original since I ran out of fabric 🙂
Another one/recommendations:  I love this, I actually cut out another straight after and have made it up, and as I’ve mentioned number 3 is on it’s way! 🙂 This is turning into a go-to pattern. This has had a lot of wear already.

Number two I made up straight after finishing this one. The fabric is a white cotton with pale blue spots made from the silk thread running up the reverse of the fabric. The fabric is one which came from my mother’s stash when she died two years ago. I had plenty and so this top is longer. So number two has become another staple in my wardrobe and as I mentioned earlier, number three is on the cards is nearly finished…

Photos were taken when I went away for a sewing weekend with the girls and we stayed at a bach called The Love Shack! It was very sunny and taking photos was difficult! They include this one which I have to include on pain of death. I looked down at my bare knees in my skirt and decided they looked like there was fat on them, obviously this photo proves there isn’t. The moral of this story, is do not look down, look in a mirror, or get someone to take a photo… 🙂

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Lady skater

It’s winter here and that makes me think of ice skating. Not that I can skate, I prefer my ground non-slippy thanks!

It doesn’t stop me making up this lady skater dress. When the pattern first came out, I really wanted to make it up, but it never happened, so I’m definitely late to the party with this one, but hey, I reckon I can go to the party in this. That flared skirt makes it feel really flirty and girly.

It was such an easy make. There are two sets of instructions, one for those who need help the whole way through (perfect for beginners) and the bad-ass instructions for those who want little guidance. I decided to just give them a read through and went my own way! Where was I going to go wrong – nowhere! (Ha, see I caught you out then, you thought I was going to say I made a mess of it!)

I stitched the shoulder seams, adding tape; added the neckband; attached the sleeves; added clear elastic to the base of the bodice; attached the skirt pieces; stitched the side seams, added the cuffs and hemmed it. Simples!

I raised the front neckline by about an inch. I read a lot of blog posts saying it was a bit low, so I though I’d raise it and if it was too high, then I could cut it to the pattern. I’ve left it in the raised version. I also cut about half inch off the bodice. Again based on posts saying it was long in the waist. I often find I need to lengthen the waist of dresses, but this knit bodice was on my waist without the skirt attached to bring it down, so I shortened it.

This fabric, I think, came from the Fabric Warehouse. It was an absolute dream to work with. It’s really stable, cut out perfectly and then even went together perfectly. I pretty much stitched this up on my overlocker, using my machine for finishing the neckline and cuffs and also to stitch the hem with a double needle.

The deets
Fabric:  Pink and black double knit from the Fabric Warehouse
Notions:  Thread
Pattern:  Kitschy Coo Lady Skater dress, size 6 with 3/4 sleeves
Changes made:  Raised the front neckline by an inch, shortened the bodice by 1/2 inch and lengthened the skirt by about 1.5 inches.

Another one/recommendations:  It’s not often I say this, but yes, another is planned already, another has already been made! This dress is so comfy, it’s like wearing PJs. If you’re after something quick and satisfying to make, this is the one for you. I’m definitely happy with my dress. 🙂 The back neckline is a little low for my liking, so the next version will be raised slightly.

And photos for this were taken at Karori Cemetery here in Wellington. Not morbid at all, this place is amazing to walk around, it’s hilly (goes without saying in Wellington) and it’s just awesome the way the memorials are laid out on the hills.

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Kingfisher tunic

It’s taken ages to get photos of this tunic.

I actually made it last December before we went off to the UK. It was for travel and I’ve worn it a lot since. The pattern is actually from the UK magazine Prima. I have a lot of Prima patterns which I collected in the UK and quite like them. I’ve made quite a few Prima designs over the years and am used to their instructions and drafting.

The fabric came from Spotlight, but can’t remember rightly when I bought it. The bright pink fine cotton with the kingfishers told me I had to buy it!

This tunic shape is very simple, but has short sleeves and I like the pleated neckline. It also has darts in the back to give some more shape.

The pattern was not difficult and I made it up really quickly. I think it was finished in one afternoon! I have to admit, I have very little to say, simply because it was a quick and easy make, I found the instructions clear and easy to follow, not that I used them much! All seams are finished on my overlocker and the hems are just finished on the machine.

The drafting is great, I made a size 16 with no changes. The sleeves are a wee bit tighter than I’d ideally like, but I don’t really notice it when I’m wearing it.

The deets
Fabric:  Bright pink cotton lawn with kingfishers from Spotlight
Notions:  Thread
Pattern:  Prima magazine pattern from May 2010, size 16
Changes made:  None!

Another one/recommendations:  I’m happy with my tunic. I would recommend Prima patterns. This was a quick make and one that’s been a great addition to my wardrobe. It was perfect for the travel with leggings and this top underneath for layering. I think the dress version would be great made up in a soft stable knit and a belt, or combine it somehow with a lady skater skirt. Mm, thinks, what’s in my stash!

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