Closet Core Nicks Dress

I’ve made a thing! Actually I’ve made a few things, but the last thing I’ve been thinking about are photos and blogging. 

I’ve been trying to be good and not buy new patterns, since I own so many and am probably never going to make a half of them, but I saw so many versions of this pattern, in the end I got sucked in and clicked buy!

The Nicks dress and blouse pattern has a boho feel. All views feature a loose-fitting V-necked bodice with a gently gathered shoulder and yoke. The slightly puffed sleeve is gathered at the shoulder and there is a choice of a short sleeve, or a long sleeve with wrist pleats for shaping and an elastic gathered cuff. The pattern also has two neckline finishes: a simple facing, or a bias-bound neckline with delicate rouleau button loops and buttons. I decided to go for long sleeves and the bias-bound neck with rouleau button loops and buttons.

My fabric came from The Fabric Store. I saw the fabric on the gram made up by a Melbourne sewer. I honestly saw the fabric, fell in love and ordered it there and then! It’s been sat in my stash for around two years while I decided what to make! And it has been pretty much two years, I’ve found the original IG post, which was dated 1 October 2021! It’s a viscose georgette and is a little sheer, but drapes beautifully.

I made up a size 18 from the 0-20 size range, purely based on my measurements in their size chart. I looked at the finished measurements, but honestly, I can never picture finished measurements on me. I did make up a muslin, but I just couldn’t comprehend that size. Consequently, this final bodice is way too big and too blousy, the tops of the sleeves don’t sit on my shoulders either. Also because it’s too big, the V-neck at the front gapes a wee bit if I’m not careful. Don’t want to be showing that to the world and his wife!

I love the sleeves on this dress, they are big. They actually get wider to the bottom and then are pleated into the band which is then elasticated. Although I do find that I keep shifting them up to three quarter length. Long sleeves just aren’t really me, unless it’s a jumper, but even those I often shift up.

I’m a glutton for punishment, so I decided to make the bias-bound neck with rouleau loops. Having made the rouleau loops on my art deco blouse I got just a little over confident and thought I’d be fine – it wasn’t long before I began to regret that choice, particularly with this fabric. I did everything as I should have, trimmed the seam after sewing, left long threads to turn and then used my loop turner, but this fabric was not having it! It took some time to get these loops and there were just a few swear words in my sewing room! The buttons are from Spotlight, I didn’t have any suitable in stash. I did handstitch on the inside as auggested to ensure the front didn’t gape or pull apart.

I made one change and that was due to fabric constraints. I didn’t have enough fabric for three tiers on the skirt, but knew I wanted a tiered skirt, so I made two tiers, similar to the skirt on the Deer and Doe Myosotis. The top tier is longer than the bottom tier. I also lined the skirt with a dark red cotton voile which I had in stash.

The main issue with this dress is the lack of pockets. I’m honestly finding that I don’t wear things without pockets, so I had to find a way to add pockets. In the end, I added lightweight interfacing to the side seam and made some inseam pockets from the cotton voile lining fabric. The pockets are also attached at the waistband, so actually there’s a reasonable amount of support for the pockets. I inserted the pockets on the skirt, attached the lining. The skirt was then attached to the bodice, once I was happy with that, I then attached the pockets. The final thing was to insert the elastic, so the pockets stretch with the waist and sit between the lining and skirt. It also means that the pockets have additional support. I’m always sticking my hands in my pockets so hopefully they might last a while! 

I attached a KATM label to the pocket for fun. Yes, this dress seemed to take forever!

The deets
Fabric:  Viscose georgette from The Fabric Store, bought a couple of years ago
Notions:  Thread, interfacing and black buttons from Spotlight. Oh and a label from KATM
Pattern:  Closet Core Nicks dress, size 18 from the 0-20 size range, with long sleeves and a two tiered skirt.
Changes made:  No changes to the pattern, except to add pockets and change the skirt to two tiers rather than three due to fabric constraints

Another one/recommendations:  I made this one far too big. The shoulders are too wide and it is far too blousy. I love the pattern, so I’m definitely going to try again and really check those finished measurements. Some of the sizing will come from my fabric choice, since this is very lightweight. I’ll make a smaller bodice and consider raising the V-neck. I do need to check the shoulder length, but also the back yoke possibly needs to remain as an 18, unless I finally learn how to do a round back adjustment! I’ll also most likely make short sleeves, but the three tiered skirt. I have fabric in stash waiting, and knowing me, my mind won’t let me use it for something else!

The pattern is a great one. Strangely, the only issue I had with the instructions was following the burrito for the bodice. I ended up using another website! Yes, I’ve used the method for some time, but still can’t seem to remember it! Although I did question the bottom of the sleeve, it’s pleated onto the cuff, which is then threaded with elastic, meaning the pleats aren’t really visible. It’s a nice feature, but I think possibly not needed. If I make a longer sleeve, I’d probably just lengthen it to include the cuff in the sleeve and do away with the pleats.